How to get under the skin of Mexico City’s coolest neighbourhood, Roma

Our microguides sequence is impressed by the gradual journey motion, encouraging travellers to calm down their tempo and take a deep dive into one specific neighbourhood in a well-loved metropolis. Slightly than a whirlwind itinerary which goals to hit up each must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and really discover like an area.

On the southwesterly fringe of CDMX (Mexico Metropolis)’s historic centre of sprawling architectural diamonds and exhilarating bustle lies extra of the identical. Certainly one of 21 barrios mágicos (‘magic neighbourhoods’) within the metropolis, La Roma nestles inside CDMX’s wider Cuauhtémoc borough and comprises all of the darlings {that a} mini-break begs for. Extra usually although, this pricey spot is simply known as Roma. It’s directly quaint and grandiose, and it’s nonetheless altering and shifting in character.

Till the late Noughties, this dilapidated space was recovering from quite a lot of crime. A giant metropolis cleanup and heavy funding noticed outdated beauties come to life and now the facades are a famed vibrant characteristic of the capital.

There are towering listed buildings, glowing parks of palms and jacarandas, wonderful galleries, well-balanced conventional markets, world-class eating places and delectable stays. It’s such good enjoyable, and also you gained’t stroll 30 seconds earlier than you cross the daintiest taco of your life, adopted by a mezcal bar to unwind in. Roma is teeming with hip Mexican artistic varieties and expats – most streets spill over with eating places, bars, cafes and boutiques.

Right here’s benefit from a day on this iconic neighbourhood.

(La Valise)


Wander and take photographs

CDMX’s Roma isn’t any secret – you will have seen the 2018 Oscar-winning film named after it. The ’hood is made up of two halves, Roma Norte and Roma Sur – each gloriously walkable and near main metro stops. An earthquake in 1985 virtually flattened quite a lot of Spanish colonial buildings, however thankfully a lot of the world’s elegant outdated townhouses are prettily preserved – wander, get your bearings and peer by means of imposing wrought iron gates.

Paying homage to the magnificent Hunterian Museum in London or the weird Museum of Issues in Berlin, this “Museum of the Object” is a sight for curious eyes. Generally tactile, usually mindbending, this area charts the historical past of every thing from foods and drinks to scientific devices in ever-changing, conversation-sparking exhibitions.

Go to market

Mexico Metropolis’s liveliest meals markets – although great and extremely really useful – might really feel a tad overwhelming, from their crowds to the sheer quantity of choices. On the different finish of the spectrum, Mercado Roma is a delight – it’s indoors, meticulously clear and curated a little bit extra for vacationers and households. Remember to say sure to the delicacy of all delicacies, chapulines, or fried grasshoppers – usually served as a crunchy garnish atop quesadillas or as a nut different with a chilly beer. Frivolously tossed in scorching oil and seasoned with garlic and lemon, they’re a must-try snack.

Study Leonora

Dive into the world of the British-Mexican Surrealist, Leonora Carrington, at her residence and studio turned museum on Calle Chihuahua, newly opened as of 2021 (a decade after her passing). Divine contrasts between gentle and darkish and a narrative wealthy with weird and good discoveries are poured into this bijou museum. It’s a botanist’s dream, too: vegetation spill over every white ground and wall, nestled between some 8,000 works. Cuarón’s Roma was shot simply two streets away – near the place the filmmaker himself resides.

(Supra Roma)


Mercado de Medellín

This mini-market in Roma Sur is to not be missed. Alongside its Cuban bites (the ice cream is dreamy), it’s additionally a haven for Colombian delicacies, in addition to loads of Mexican choices you gained’t discover wherever else. Medellín #20, Cuauhtémoc, 06760

Panadería Rosetta

This bakery is the little sister of Mexico Metropolis’s advantageous eating institution Rosetta, created by world-renowned chef Elena Reygadas. Hit the cheese and guava pastries and also you’ll remorse nothing – then take some extra with you to your aircraft journey residence. Colima 179, Roma Nte

At Por Siempre Vegana, the almighty taco is reimagined, meat-free, by Luis Rodríguez and Melissa Ayal, hitting all the correct flavour factors with no meat or dairy concerned. Chillies, recent herbs, spices and vegan cheese stacked upon marinated mushroom and different proteins prevail.

There are many fancy eating rooms throughout CDMX. The aforementioned Rosetta, fish specialist Contramar and Maximo Bistrot are simply three of probably the most sought-after choices in Roma – all three have been raved about by popstar Dua Lipa in her current newletter. However Maximo’s tasting menu places it forward of the pack for a spendy dinner – e book forward however choose bar-dining for a extra raucous and chatty really feel. The total dinner together with wine is beneath £200 – anticipate decadent dishes akin to gratinated comté, octopus ceviche and wagyu beef tongue.

Tacos at Por Siempre Vegana

(Por Siempre Vegana)


Sip your mezcal margaritas with chilli-worm salt in hand on the streetside tables of this Roma hangout – it has heating lamps for uncommon nippy nights. Go along with the home suggestions – the very best and smokiest mezcals are from Oaxaca – and don’t skimp on the salt. On Thursdays, head to Mama Rumba for a dance class afterwards.

Brooklyn or Berlin-like with its unassuming, industrial exterior, Supra is drastically unornate compared to the Baroque and Bauhaus facades seen throughout the remainder of Roma. Londoners will recognise the carpark-but-make-it-cocktails vibe from Frank’s in Peckham, accompanied by sunshine, DJs, vegetation, twinkling lights and glowing dialog.

(Licoreria Limantour)


This vogue home is not only set on producing moral clothes (using individuals indigenous and mestizo communities and devoted to preserving textile legacies); it additionally creates work that’s totally influenced and enriched by nationwide tradition and historical past. The designs first got here to notoriety for his or her clear homage to architect Luis Barragán. The garments are pretty, gender-fluid and principally one-size-fits-all of their free-flowing state.

To-emigrate-for wardrobes, chests, chaise lounges and antiques might be discovered at Piezas Unicas. The treasures listed below are subsequent stage, the individuals watching is unbeatable and you may chat interiors, artwork and design with the sellers from daybreak until nightfall. An abundance of books, trinkets and glassware match to your rigorously packed suitcase awaits.

In La Valise’s Terazza suite, you may scoot your mattress out beneath the celebrities

(La Valise)


Request the Terazza suite, with a mattress on rails so you may shift it to the balcony and sleep beneath the celebrities – or e book La Luna with its large spinning moon set up separating lounge and bed room. A mirrored, marbled lavatory might be discovered down a protracted hall, with a roll prime bathtub and all facilities. Whichever of its handful of unique rooms you bag, the vibe at this unassuming townhouse is low key and personal, together with a continental breakfast that’s delivered to your room. Doubles from £208, B&B.

E book right here

Near the Metro and Colonia Roma, this not-quite-hostel is decidedly no frills, with not one of the Artwork Deco opulence of its surrounding buildings – however its cubish cuteness is brilliant and clear, with quick WiFi, a very good health club, sturdy aircon and even suite upgrades for not a lot in any respect. Doubles from £33, room solely.

E book now

Getting there

Attempting to fly much less?

Dedicated flight-free of us might get a prepare to Rotterdam so as to catch the cargo ship to Houston, Texas. From right here you may take one bus to Queretaro and one other on to Mexico Metropolis.

Superb with flying?

British Airways and Aeromexico fly direct to Mexico Metropolis from the UK, with many extra airways connecting.

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