On the right track: Travelling from London-Sicily by rail is climate-friendly and jam-packed with adventure

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We grew to become accustomed to the expressions of incredulity throughout our prolonged journey: “Con il treno? You come from London to Sicilia by prepare! Why?”

Nicely, why not. St Pancras to Syracuse – nearly the identical latitude as Tunis and nearly as good a spot as any to hunt out some winter solar. No airports, no motorways; simply a few thousand miles of Europe step by step metamorphosing from gray and grisly into heat and welcoming.

Whereas the necessity for velocity underpins aviation’s decades-long supremacy, neither Eurostar nor its French TGV counterparts with their record-beating 575 km/h could possibly be accused of hanging round. The quickest route into Italy is to Turin by way of Paris in round eight hours. However there’s one thing compelling about boarding a prepare in London and, lower than six-and-a-half hours later, stepping out onto the terrace of Marseille’s majestic Nineteenth-century station, to gaze out throughout the town. Marseille, with its multi-ethnic, rough-edged, under-the-radar enchantment, represents a super first port of name. From there, the dog-leg amble eastwards to Good is a hypnotic lull by means of picture-perfect Provence. Blanketed in piercing December solar, the prepare sashays by means of forests and vineyards, skirts alongside seashores with well-known names, and dances dangerously near an aquamarine sea.

Practice with a view: the journey supplies spectacular surroundings

(Andrew Harris)

The meat within the sandwich of any prepare journey to Southern Italy, although, is the InterCityNotte sleeper prepare. It runs from Milan to Sicily, loaded onto the ferry on the last stage to succeed in the island; the one place in Europe the place such a phenomenon exists.

The mild experience across the Ligurian coast to Genoa is a waterfront slideshow of resort cities dawdling their means by means of the low season shadowlands. Genoa, like Marseille, is one other doubtlessly rewarding B-list metropolis stopover, however we proceed into the spectacular Riviera shoreline in the direction of the Cinque Terre cities. Over-touristed in summer time, with their little toy train-set stations they make for an alluring keep in the course of the autumn and winter months.

At La Spezia, within the chill evening air, we wait apprehensively for the sleeper prepare in a near-empty station. As welcome as a rescue ship scooping up survivors, the InterCityNotte clangs its means alongside the platform, onto which bounds our chirpy uniformed chaperone. He’s not solely anticipating us however has the beds in our compartment already made up. After efficiently scanning the NHS app (required for long-distance trains in France and Italy), we’re shortly cocooned into womb-like heat and rocking gently towards a contented slumber as we tiptoe off into the Tuscan evening.



We’re shortly cocooned into womb-like heat and rocking gently towards a contented slumber as we tiptoe off into the Tuscan evening

Based on Mark Smith of www.seat61.com, the human lexicon of all issues rail, these two-berth “luxe” cabins initially had plush carpets and even a mural. That’s clearly lengthy gone, however there’s a washbasin, and it’s all spotlessly clear. Elevating the blinds subsequent morning, an unlimited expanse of unadulterated azure sky reigning down over the Campania countryside fills the window body as if we’d forgotten to show the telly off. Oranges dangle exterior, as our attendant reappears with espresso and a light-weight breakfast. Skirting round Naples, commuters crowd alongside platforms within the morning sunshine, dressed for a Himalayan trek, earlier than the majesty that’s Mount Vesuvius takes up residence within the hall window.

The experience by means of Calabria within the sole of Italy’s boot is one other coastline-hugging jaunt by means of sensational solar and sea-infused surroundings. Immediately recognisable because the disadvantaged and depopulated south, beautiful expanses of surf-splayed seashore are sometimes complemented by little greater than slabs of ugly housing. Beneath-explored Calabria, nonetheless, stays a compelling possibility for travellers searching for an genuine unadulterated Italy.

The InterCityNotte is the one European prepare to board a ferry

(Andrew Harris)

By late morning, we’re readying to bop the well-known train-on-a-ship fandango. It’s tough to evaluate exactly what’s happening with all of the shunting backwards and forwards, however very quickly in any respect, we’re certainly watching the surreal sight of our prepare gliding its means onto a ship.

We head out to the café for a blast of sea air because the train-ship sails sedately into Messina’s sun-speckled harbour. After extra shunting round, the prepare is out of the blue off once more, the afternoon’s spectacular seascape now unfolding on the other facet. A smoking Mount Etna, magnificent and menacing, lumbers into the panorama like an enormous theatrical backdrop.



A smoking Mount Etna, magnificent and menacing, lumbers into the panorama like an enormous theatrical backdrop

Encompassing evening’s sleep, the continuous show-reel of breath-taking magnificence unfolding exterior the window, and a revitalising saunter across the ferry, the 17-hour prepare journey wasn’t as arduous because it sounds. Although we do propel ourselves straight into Ortigia’s charming little Resort Gutkowski, the place shabby and stylish mix to nice impact, for a a lot sought-after bathe. Ortigia, an atmospheric warren of historical tumbling streets compressed right into a promontory jutting into the clear waters of the Ionian Sea, is the historic coronary heart of Syracuse, birthplace of Archimedes, and a serious metropolis throughout the historical Greek world.

Winter solar makes swimming viable in Ortigia

(Andrew Harris)

And sure, that winter solar that is been burning ever brighter since Marseille is right here. Persons are even swimming from the platforms that grasp off Ortigia’s rocky perimeter. Syracuse hit the headlines in August when it registered the very best temperature ever recorded in Europe: 48.8C. Just like the vineyards round Etna compelled to change to tropical fruit cultivation, and the latest catastrophic flooding in close by Catania, local weather change in Sicily, it appears, is all too obvious. Possibly London to Sicily “con il treno”, isn’t fairly so tough to understand in any case.

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